Posts Tagged ‘tidbits’

An Interview with: Anne Kuo Lukito

Thursday, March 4th, 2010

This post is a long time coming, and we’re so glad to have found the time to finally put it up!

We met Anne, of Crafty Diversions and the Handicraft Cafe at our first TNNA in January of 2009.  She has always been a huge fan and supporter of the Fibre Company and our yarns.  Last fall, she contacted us about using Canopy Fingering in a new and exciting project she was working on, her Liberation pattern collection of six hats.  Since we love hats — and the idea in general, read more about it here — we were delighted to provide yarn support for not one, but two, of her designs.

The first design, Septima Clark, features Canopy Fingering in Yerba Mate.

anne-septima-clarkphotograph courtesy of Anne Kuo Lukito

The second, Alice Paul, features Canopy Fingering in Paw Paw (pictured below) and Cat’s Claw

alicepaul-1479photograph courtesy of Anne Kuo Lukito

We were lucky enough to have both hats in our both at TNNA in January, and everyone who saw them — including us! — was really impressed with the attention to detail and craftsmanship in design.  Both hats have been on our “must knit” list for some time.

Okay, onto the interview!

Kelbourne Woolens: Let’s get back to basics.  When did you start knitting and what led you to open both the Crafty Diversions pattern shop and Handicraft Cafe yarn store?  What came first the patterns or the store?

Anne Kuo Lukito: Good question! I think the patterns came first, but I didn’t think to do it seriously at first and Crafty Diversions just started out as a blog to show off my stuff since at that time, I didn’t know anyone else that knit.  I only started knitting about 5 years ago and taught myself first from a terrible book that told me that left-handed people can knit like left-handed crocheters by using a mirror. I quickly found out the limitations of that method!

The store came later. I always had a dream of opening some sort of artsy-fartsy boutique / hippie coffeehouse. So, I began thinking more seriously about it and decided to try it.  Well, we were slow getting started but now we have and sell through our website. However, the economy, as you know, has not been very good and we’ve postponed opening a brick and mortar store for now. Once the economy is in a more stable upswing, plans to open a physical store is something that we’ll definitely be re-visiting.

KW: You have a large variety of techniques covered in your knitting patterns, and all types of designs — accessories, sweaters, home decor, etc.  Do you have a particular item you like designing best, or technique that you are most drawn to, or are you a more “equal opportunity” designer?

AKL: I do love accessory projects because they are so versatile and can be worn almost any time of the year, especially hats.  With sweaters and garments, I personally tend to gravitate towards a more fitted look that may have 1-2 key elements without being too fussy. As far as techniques that I’m drawn to…that’s a harder question. Generally, I am really drawn to alternative construction and techniques and I also like to challenge myself into doing things that I wouldn’t normally think to do, if that makes any sense.

KW: We’re so happy you use the Canopy Fingering for 2 of the hats in your Liberation collection.  What about the yarns do you think made them great for knitting your hats?

AKL: What’s not to love about Canopy?!? Seriously, Canopy Fingering was one of the first yarns I thought of to include. The colors are fantastic and it’s one of those yarns that I’d like to sleep with everyday. (Road to China ranks pretty high on my sleeping list too.)

KW: Let’s talk about your design process. For these two designs, Alice Paul and Septima Clark, did you have a project in mind and then choose our yarns, or did you first swatch and then design a project specific to the yarn’s properties? Do you find that your methods change depending on the project or do you have one way you always work? If the design came first, what made you chose our yarns for each design? If the yarn came first, in what way did the yarn “inform” the designs?  More specifically, what about the fiber content, gauge, drape, or colors helped you in your design process?

AKL: My design process started with 2 rough sketches: Amelia Earhart and Septima Clark. The moment I envisioned Septima Clark, I knew that I wanted to use Canopy Fingering (CF)  - it was a very easy decision for me and I did not even swatch ahead of time to see if it’d work, because I really didn’t need to. I had been fondling the CF in the shop for some time and had been dying to use it for a project. I knew that the sheen, texture and drape of the merino/alpaca blend in CF would lend itself beautifully to a beret, especially knit at a slightly looser gauge. The hardest part of choosing the yarn for Septima Clark was choosing the color! I wanted a deeper, earthy color and finally settled on Yerba Mate for the subtle melange colors.

The design and yarn decision for Alice Paul was a little more challenging. Alice Paul was one of the last designs in the collection. I sketched out the idea, but I hemmed and hawed for some time because I was not sure how it would work. What I did know was that for it to really work, selecting just the right yarn was imperative. Initially, I thought that I would also use CF for Eleanor Roosevelt, a slouchy hat with 2 shirred panels and a visor. While that would have worked out well, I really did not want to use CF for the 2 slouchy beret-type hats in the Liberation Collection. I then thought about Alice Paul again and how structured and rigid the hat itself could appear, which was not what I wanted. I wanted the hat to have a sense of structure with a nice balance of softness, so I turned to CF. My main concern with the hat’s construction was to make sure that the visor added additional interest without looking hard and busy, so I swatched and worked a prototype test piece of the visor with CF. The result was more amazing than I had hoped or imagined! The fiber content of CF gives any fabric created from the yarn a nice soft drape and a light halo, which was exactly what Alice Paul needed to juxtapose the more structured look of the shirred panel and shirred visor.

KW: You have been a stockist of the Fibre Company yarns for a long time.  What about The Fibre Co yarns appeal to you and how do you think they contribute to your designs?

AKL: What attracted me to The Fibre Company initially was how refreshing, earthy and colorful all the yarns within each line seemed. After I met and talked to Daphne and got a sense of her wonderful character and passion for her company (which was fairly new at the time), I fell in love with the company even more.

Shortly after stocking the Fibre Company yarns, Savannah DK and Bulky quickly became one of my favorites. (Canopy was not out yet at the time).  At that same time, I was starting to submit designs to publications. I used Savannah in 2 designs that I submitted, and to my delightful surprise, both were selected for publication. One was Morgan, which uses Savannah DK and was published in Knitty, Fall 2008. The second was Mermaid, which uses Savannah Bulky and was published in 101 Luxury One-Skein Wonders.

KW: For each project, you picked different colors from the Fibre Co palette.  With a yarn shop full of beautiful yarn, you must have many many options to choose from.  How does color inform your design process or do you just pick based off of what colors you like on that particular day?   More specifically, why did you choose the Cat’s Claw (buttery orangey/greeny yellow) and yerba mate (deep rich greeny-brown) for the hats?


AKL: As I mentioned earlier, choosing the yarn was easier than choosing the color! No kidding, I really love all the Canopy colors. Generally when choosing colors for samples, I cannot always choose my favorite colors, because first of all, that means many of my patterns will all have the same colors. Another consideration in choosing colors for the samples is making sure that the colors will photograph well. As much as I love deep, dark colors, like chocolate brown, burgundy and red, those colors do not photograph well, especially with finer and more intricate details.

I chose Yerba Mate for it’s depth and richness and for the fact that the color would lend a nice sophistication to Septima Clark, but it was very hard to photograph. Even though the details of Septima Clark as less intricate than that of Alice Paul, I spent twice as much time photographing the hat. For Alice Paul, I really wanted a lighter color so that the textures of the hat would photograph well relatively easily. So for Alice Paul, I chose to work samples in both Paw-Paw and Cat’s Claw.  I wasn’t going for an animal theme - that was pure coincidence.

If photography was not an issue, I may have chosen some of the darker colors in the collection. Honestly, if I find some time later, I would love to work another sample of Alice Paul or Septima Clark in Macaw or Acai for myself.  I almost chose Macaw for Alice Paul, but I was afraid the darker blue would not photograph well enough to show all the details, but in person, I know that it would be fantastic.

KW: Is there anything else you would like to add?

AKL: I think I’ve said enough already and may have been to verbose! Thank you so much for your support of my work and my designs!

Again, thanks so much Anne, for taking the time to do this little interview with us and sharing a little about your design process!

***
Are you a LYSO, LYSW or designer - new or veteran - who has knit a project or designed something using Fibre Company Yarns? If so, shoot us an email at info {at} kelbournewoolens {dot} com and we would love to feature you on our blog!

Haitian Relief Auction - a joint auction with Kristen Rengren

Thursday, January 21st, 2010

Like all of you, we were devastated to hear of the tragic earthquake in Haiti last week.  Many knitters immediately joined a fund-raising effort in order to support the aid to this country and it has been wonderful to see and hear of the tens of thousands of dollars that have been donated so far.  Even when listening to the news this morning, it is obvious that there is a long long way to go, and most are still suffering in need of basic medical care, food and fresh water, highlighting the need for continued support, financial and otherwise, to this country.

As a result, when Kristen Rengren, author of the inimitable book, Vintage Baby Knits, and someone we admire greatly for her wit, talent and seemingly endless energy, contacted us about doing a joint auction to raise funds that would go directly to supporting the relief effort, we were immediately on board.

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(Photograph Courtesy of Kristen Rengren)

The auction is for a custom-fit pattern tailored specifically for you of the beautiful Harlow Sweater (ravelry link), and enough Road to China Light to knit one in one of the 7 color choices shown below. Harlow is a sweater that looks wonderful on all body types, and the addition of the custom sizing just for you, makes this a really amazing prize.

road-to-china-light-promo

And the kicker?  Kristen will throw in a signed copy of Vintage Baby Knits as well — an added bonus worth its own auction!

The rules and auction itself can be found here, via the group forum and occurs tonight — yes! tonight! — from 7 - 10 pm EST.

We hope that you’re as excited about this auction as we were happy to participate.

Canopy Worsted Revisited

Wednesday, December 9th, 2009

A few weeks ago while noodling around on Ravelry we came across this amazing sweater, knit out of Canopy Worsted.

francis_detail1

It was, coincidentally, knit by Sonali (knittingowl on ravelry) who used to live in Philadelphia and bought the Canopy Worsted to make this sweater at the local yarn store we also frequent.  Small world!  Sonali is now living and wearing her Canopy Worsted sweater in Berlin.  She emailed us a few weeks ago to say:

I wore that sweater just yesterday while I waited for hours in the cold and rain to watch the celebrations for the anniversary of the fall of the wall here in Berlin. I knew it was going to be freezing and I figured the sweater was one of the warmest things I had, with all that lovely alpaca, and it did a great job.

The yarn seemed perfectly suited to this sweater.  It has the drape needed to allow the cowl to fall just so, it’s soft enough to wear next to the skin, perfect for a fitted sweater.  We sent a ravelry message to the sweater’s designer, Beth Silverstein (philosoknitter on ravelry) to ask her more about her fantastic design.

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Beth has been blogging at www.philosoknitter.blogspot.com since 2005 and, like many of us, started blogging to keep in touch with friends and family who are scattered far and wide.  Francis Revisited is a free download on Ravelry, and has been very popular, with over 400 versions on Ravelry alone.  Her design was mostly inspired by the minimally processed alpaca, from the alpaca named Frances.  She says:

When I saw Frances I fell in love. I loved the natural color of the alpaca, it was this perfect heather of grays and tans, and it was so soft and unique. Buying local and organic is important to me, and I try to do it whenever I can, whether at the grocery store or when buying yarn. My favorite stash items and projects are usually made with undyed wool or alpaca or naturally dyed fiber. When I visit a yarn shop while traveling I usually try find something that is connected to the area, whether locally produced, spun, dyed, whatever. Something that will help me connect to that place.

We couldn’t agree more.  Yarn choice ought to be a primary inspiration for design.  One’s choice of yarn will greatly affect the final outcome, fit and style, of your garment.  Beth goes on to say:

I love alpaca for the project because at such a loose gauge the sweater is light but really, really warm and the alpaca gives the perfect drape for the cowl neck.  I think they are so classic and elegant but not over the top, so almost anyone can pull it off effortlessly and look stylish.

Thanks to Beth and Sonali for your participation!

Spotlight on: Canopy Worsted

Monday, November 30th, 2009

We’re continuing with our Canopy theme this week with a spotlight on Canopy Worsted, the (aptly named) worsted weight cousin to Canopy Fingering.

Many of the same properties apply when talking about the Worsted and Fingering — it is the same wonderful blend of 50% Baby Alpaca, 30% Merino and 20% Bamboo. It has a smooth texture and is a 3 ply yarn with a medium-twist which provides great stitch definition as well as strength and sheen so the yarn holds up well and does not pill easily.  Canopy Worsted was first introduced in the 10 original “springy”colors, and this June we added another 10 colors to the line to create what we feel is a really beautiful and well-rounded palette.

Canopy Worsted is a little bit lighter in weight than Terra, Road to China Worsted and Organik.  When knitting sweaters — and we think Canopy Worsted is a perfect sweater yarn! — or an item where we want good definition and structure we like to knit it at a gauge between 20-22 sts/4 inches.  If we’re doing something where we want drape — a scarf or cowl, for instance, we loosen it up a bit and sometimes even knit it as loose as 16 sts/4″.  Canopy Worsted is an incredibly versatile yarn gauge-wise — but ultimately it is up to you to find the drape and knitted fabric you like best!

canopy-worsted41

Like all of the Fibre Company Yarns — especially, as you can well imagine, Canopy Fingering — Canopy Worsted has a decent alpaca content, which, as we have said before, adds a ton of softness, drape and warmth.  The merino adds warmth and softness as well, but also has a little more “memory”, so depending on the application, the final fabric can have a lot of structure.  The bamboo, unique to the Canopy lines, ads a wonderful sheen and drape to the yarn, and produces a unique subtle heathery dye effect due to the application and type of dyes used.

One pattern that shows off the versatility of Canopy Worsted is the newly published and popular 5th Avenue Scarf (ravel it!) by Margaux Pena (aka tentenknits).  We have always been a big fan of Margaux, and love seeing her and Patricia of Patricia’s Yarns, in person at TNNA and the Sheep & Wool Festivals and were doubly excited when Margaux showed us her new scarf at Rhinebeck.

5th-ave-scarf-1

The 5th Avenue scarf is a perfect accessory for fall and winter, as it provides the warmth of a full-size scarf with a multitude of styling options.  We love it both ways, either draped around the neck in a big loop or as shown below wrapped a few times around the neck.  Kate was the passenger in a long drive this past Thanksgiving weekend and is in the middle of some projects that either require a lot of thinking or adjusting charts in excel as she knits, or some other element that makes them not so great for a car ride, so she cast on for her very own 5th Avenue Scarf in Palm Blud, a very light blue.  She is already a few skeins in and totally in love, so hopes to finish by this weekend!

5th-ave-scarf-2

(Photos courtesy of Margaux Pena)

Another pattern that is a wonderful use of Canopy Worsted is the Give a Hoot mittens designed by our friend, Jocelyn Tunney.  These mittens were one of the first Kelbourne Woolens Free Patterns that we published and we continue to be delighted with their popularity!

mittenfrontlarge

And, as some of you may already know, Courtney is knitting an adult version of her adorable Fiddlehead Pullover as featured recently on the Purl Bee in Canopy Worsted.  We are doing thigs a little differently this time, and she is putting up a little tutorial as she knits based off of the original numbers for the baby version.  The first installment is here (scroll down a bit), and if all goes well she should be posting the next step in a few days!

Fiddlehead Pullover on The Purl Bee!

Friday, November 20th, 2009

We are very excited to share a Purl Bee exclusive, the Fiddlehead Pullover with you!  Courtney designed this sweet pullover for infants 0-6 or 6-12 months and it was featured last week on the Purl Bee website in conjunction with The Fibre Company being the featured sponsor for the month of November!  (Be sure to click the “Featured Sponsor” link — you can enter to win some amazing free prizes!

The Fiddlehead Pullover uses Canopy Fingering, just 2 or 3 skeins, which was coincidentally our featured yarn spotlight last week– talk about perfect timing!

emmet2

The sweater is knit in pieces and seamed together, and both shoulders have a buttoned closure to make it easier to fit it over baby’s head.  Courtney knows from experience how difficult dressing a floppy little bundle o’ baby can be, and promised she would never knit a pullover for babies ever again unless there were buttons on the shoulders.

fiddleheadclose12

It is shown in our favorite color of Canopy Fingering, Fern.  It’s a perfect baby green–not too blue and not too yellow and perfectly gender neutral!

Don’t have a little one to knit for?  Some readers commented on The Purl Bee that they would like to have an adult sized version of the pattern for themselves and we couldn’t agree more.  We thought a blog tutorial and knit-a-long was in order.  So, over the coming weeks we will be knitting the prototype and talking about how to adapt the pattern for your size and specifications.  The tutorial is designed for you to take charge of your knitting, like a choose your own adventure.  At the end of it all, we will format a traditional pattern you will be able to download from Kelbourne Woolens.  Those of you who just can’t wait, and like a little adventure, grab your needles, visit one of our Canopy Worsted stockists, read on and cast on!

Courtney ran some numbers and knit some swatches last night and here’s what she found: if you follow the 0-6 month size and cast on 86 stitches at a gauge of 5 sts per inch using Canopy Worsted the finished bust circumference is 33.6, which is a women’s small (or perfect for the hard-to-knit-for ‘tween’ in your life).  The 6-12 month size, with a cast on of 94, will give you a 37.6″ circumference.  The difference in stitches for the two sizes is 8 stitches so let’s assume that if we keep increasing our cast on by 8 sts or 1.6″ we’ll be good to go.  (Cast on 102 for a 40.8″ bust, 110 for a 44″ bust, 118 for a 47.2″ bust, 126 sts for a 50.4″ bust, etc). Keep adding 8 to the cast on number, divide that by 5 (the number of stitches per inch) and multiply by 2 (once for the front and once for the back) and you’ll have your finished circumference.

Courtney cast on for the 38″ bust and her bust measures 39″.  She wants the sweater to be fitted, and plans on adding some waist shaping to give it a better fit as well.  (She has already imagined wearing the sweater with a nice tailored pair of slacks and little heels at TNNA).  Ultimately, the fit you choose is up to you — you can go for a comfy oversized fit, or a more tailored tighter fit.  A good “average fit” would be about 2″ positive ease, or, if your bust is a 42″ and you cast on 110 for a finished measurement of 44″ you would have a comfortable, well fitting sweater.

adult-fiddlehead

For the adult sweater, work in a k1, p1 rib for about 3″, but the length of the ribbing is up to you in the end.  In a more fitted sweater we think a slightly longer ribbing looks best, and for larger sizes, a longer ribbing is good as well for better proportioning.  For a looser fitted sweater you could get away with ribbing for just a couple of inches.  After you have worked your ribbing for the desired length, you will begin the body panel.   The center panel pattern is a multiple of 7 sts+4, which is NOT the same thing as a multiple of 11.  Why?  Well, this particular panel is 18 sts, which is 7 repeats 2 times (14 sts) plus 4 sts.  There is 4 seed sts on either side of each mock cable.  4 seed, 3 cable, 4 seed, 3 cable, 4 seed.  Here’s a hint, though.  If you are making a larger size you may want to add another mock cable to the body panel.  Now, symmetrically you have to add two, one on either side.  So you could work a center panel of 18 sts as written (which amounts to 3.6″ panel) or you could work 32 sts of the center panel, which is 6.4″ wide.  If we were making a 50″ sweater we would want the wider center panel to balance out the stockinette on either side.  When you start working the center panel — which will be either 18 or 32 sts depending on what you decide is best for you –  you have to center it.  For the first two sizes and an 18 st panel, the numbers are the same as in the original pattern.  For the other  sizes, you will have to subtract the center panel sts–again, 18 OR 32–from your cast on number.  Cast on 126?  Want a wider 32 st center panel?  126-32=94.  Now, divide the answer by 2: 94/2=47.  So you would work k47, [work center panel], k47.  One more time.  Did you cast on 118 sts?  Want to work a narrower 18 st center panel?  118-18=100/2=50.  So, k50, [work center panel], k50.  Great!

So, go cast on!  What are you waiting for?  Stay tuned for waist shaping…

Spotlight on: Canopy Fingering

Monday, October 26th, 2009

Whew.  Sorry for the radio silence there.

Where were we?  Ah, yes.  Yarn Spotlights.  We have had Canopy Fingering next on the list to feature, and it turns out to be perfect timing!

While we usually are particularly in love with whichever yarn we are knitting with at that moment (and as this is being typed, Kate has a sweater in Canopy Worsted, a sweater in Terra, a hat in Road to China Light and a hat in Organik on the needles, and Courtney has a hat in Canopy Worsted, a sweater in Organik, and just finished a sweater in Road to China Worsted, so you can see there is a lot of love to go around) Canopy Fingering continues to be a constant favorite here at Kelbourne Woolens.  It is a newer yarn in the line, but quickly has become popular with shawl, sock, accessory — and even sweater — knitters alike.

Canopy Fingering is a wonderful blend of 50% Baby Alpaca, 30% Merino and 20% Bamboo. It has a smooth texture and is a 3 ply yarn with a medium-twist which provides great stitch definition.  In its first incarnation, the yarn was called “Canopy Sport” but has a recommended gauge of 32-36 sts/4 inches.  One of the first things we did was re-name the yarn “Fingering”, but didn’t actually change anything about it.  Some of you may come across skeins or have some with the old labels stashed — have no fear, it is the exact same yarn as today and an be worked with the patterns support and new colors!  The combination of the fiber content and construction, even in a finer weight, make Canopy Fingering a really versatile yarn.  We think it works well knit as loosely as 6 sts/inch all the way to a tight 9 sts/inch.

canopyfingeringfern11

Like all of the Fibre Company Yarns, Canopy Fingering has a decent alpaca content, which, as we have said before, adds a ton of softness, drape and warmth.  The merino adds warmth and softness as well, but also has a little more “memory”, so depending on the application, the final fabric can have a lot of structure.  The bamboo, unique to the Canopy lines, ads a wonderful sheen and drape to the yarn, and produces a unique subtle heathery dye effect due to the application and type of dyes used.

One pattern that shows off the versatility of Canopy Fingering is Kate’s popular Selbu Modern beret. With its wonderful stitch definition, perfect amount of drape and subtly shaded colors, the beret works up beautifully in two colors.  Because of the stacked Fair Isle pattern, it looks great in a more traditional subtle colorway, shown below, or in a funkier one such as acai and mint.

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Another pattern that is a wonderful use of Canopy Fingering is the Lucille baby sweater and bonnet.  The lace pattern blocks out beautifully and because of its next-to-skin softness, it is perfect for use on the sometimes sensitive skin of new babes, and the subtle colors evoke a wonderfully vintage feel.

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We absolutely love the versatility of Canopy fingering — it was extremely hard picking just two patterns that highlight the properties of this great yarn! Luckily, we didn’t have to, as it is also featured pretty heavily in the new Interweave Knits Holiday Gifts magazine, on newsstands now!

The three patterns in the magazine really beautifully highlight the versatility of Canopy Fingering.  First, the Family of Hats, by Catherine Shields, is actually a set of patterns in three different shapes and color possibilities.  We, to be expected, are partial to the center, ‘beret’ version, but also love the earflaps and longer, slouchy look of the other two!

family-of-hats

The next pattern is the Nuneh Mittens by our very own Courtney!  These mittens utilize the Armenian Knitting technique and produce a wonderfully soft and warm yet light fabric.  The mittens feature a wintery motif of a tree next to a quaint cabin with a smokestack that evolves into falling snowflakes.

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And last but not least, there is a beautiful Herrigbone Kimono by the queen of vintage baby knits, Kristen Rengren.  We love the stitch structure and wrap around construction of this beautiful baby cardigan.  The addition of the red buttons ads just the right amount of whimsy — we cannot wait to see the color and button combinations people come up with!

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As you can see, Canopy Fingering is a great versatile yarn — if you haven’t yet we highly recommend you give it a try!  We know you will fall in love.

An Interview with: Anne Hanson

Friday, October 2nd, 2009

We are happy to interrupt our yarn spotlight postings with an interview with Anne Hanson, the talented and lovely designer!

We meet Anne at our very first TNNA in January and were delighted to be able to put a few skeins of yarn into her hands.  As the time went by and we became busier and busier, every once and a while we would think to ourselves “hmmm, I wonder if Anne liked the yarn?”  Luckily enough, we soon found out not only did she like it, she designed two gorgeous patterns featuring Canopy Fingering and Road to China Light and recently debuted them on her website.

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Dovecote is a triangular shawl designed in two sizes knit out of Canopy Fingering.  The shawl is knit top-down with a sawtooth knit on edging. The large sample modeled by Anne is knit out of Cat’s Claw, a buttery yellow with subtle hits of peach and green, and the smaller out of Macaw, a deep rich blue with hints of purple.  You can read more about her lovely description of the shawl here.

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The Birnum Wood Wrap is a rectangular stole knit in Road to China Light based off of similar motifs and named after Shakespeare’s Birnam Wood.

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It is constructed from either end and grafted in the center.  You can read more about her lovely description of the wrap here.

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(all images from Anne Hanson. Thanks, Anne!)

In conjunction with the release of her patterns, we asked Anne if we could interview her a little bit about her design process.  Read on + Enjoy!

KW: Thanks so much for taking the time to talk about your work with us!  Your shawls are really beautiful and we’re so happy you chose to design them using Fibre Co. yarns.

AH: thank you so much; it was a real compliment to me when, at TNNA you flagged me down to say hello and introduce yourselves; i was completely seduced by the yarns you showed me at the time!

KW: Let’s get back to basics.  You currently have over 150 (!) designs to your name.  When did you start knitting and what led you to become such a prolific designer?

AH: i started knitting as a small child; my grandma taught at around the age of four years. i was attracted to the stitch patterns in the items she knit and wanted to make them myself.

i also began to sew and embroider in the same year and worked at all of those needlecrafts while growing up; during my teens i became interested in creating garments from my own designs. i worked in the fashion business during my 20s and 30s and was encouraged by various designers to “do something with my knitting”. but i was shy and lacked the confidence to really put it out there.

i’ve always had lot of ideas in any creative thing that i took up; more than i can ever work on at one time. inspiration has never been a problem for me. in fact, if anything, my biggest challenge was editing and focusing my thoughts and training myself to turn them into good final designs.

it wasn’t until my mid-30s that i started  seriously designing my own sweaters and shawls and several more years before i actually wrote knitting patterns to sell. even then, i sold them only on a small scale through local yarn stores at first.

then i started blogging and it all came together; readers encouraged me to sell patterns for my designs online and i tried it. one thing led to another and before long, i was selling enough to make it a full-time endeavor, which lead to lots more designs.

KW: We think it is safe to say the bulk of your designs incorporate lace.  What about knitting lace – and more specifically shawls – appeals to you?

AH: funny thing about that; it’s true that the bulk of what the online community has seen of my work is lace. however, i have a deep background designing sweaters and knitting other types of fabrics as well, but i often forget that the general knitting public has not seen as much of that!

i’ve always enjoyed rather lengthy forays into specific types of knitting, working for 6 months or a year with aran patterns, for instance, then doing color work for a while, then working through various techniques or construction problems; sometimes this work manifested itself in garments and sometimes just a series of swatches. i rotated between different types of knitting and back again as my interest dictated.

i like lace because it is so architecturally interesting; it has rhythm and cadence and the patterns allow deeply-relaxed focus for me. but honestly, that is true of any patterned knitting.

i started a “conversation” around lace on my blog with my first shawl design, and have built on that geometrically over the last three years, incorporating all aspects of what affects the results, from needles, to yarn, to fiber, to the garment itself. i think the curiosity of readers has contributed to keeping this particular investigation going for so long.

shawls are a very special type of garment to knit; they have a romantic, narrative quality which is not reliant on the body that fills them. i enjoy “composing” stitches on the canvas of a shawl. they are also structurally interesting to knit; something is always going on to keep the knitter involved, especially in the shaped ones.

i’m making room again now for sweater knitting, which is a real passion of mine; i’ve missed it way too much and i have many designs that i want to publish. i like creating functional, everyday garments as much as shawls; it pleases me to make items that are useful and will receive hard wear on a constant basis. designing functional items that are visually attractive and interesting to look at is very satisfying.

KW: We’re so happy you enjoyed knitting with Canopy Fingering and Road to China Light.  What about the yarns do you think made them great for knitting shawls?

AH: both of these yarns are extremely pleasant to knit with! i just love a yarn that feels delicious as it runs through my fingers and both of these yarns fit the bill. then there is the fabric; i can’t describe in words how soft and luxurious they are knitted up and how much i appreciated having the chance to work with them. these are important qualities in a yarn that you are using for a big project like a shawl; you’ll want to pick it up and work on it every chance you get when the yarn is this lovely.

structurally too, these yarns are perfect for lace and shawls; the fiber content and relaxed twist contribute to fluid stitches and even fabric that blocks and drapes beautifully. the slightly-iridescent shading of differently-colored fibers used in the yarn, accents and highlights the folds of the fabric as it falls or catches the light.

KW: Let’s talk about your design process. For these two designs, did you have a project in mind and then choose our yarns, or did you first swatch and then design a project specific to each yarn’s properties? Do you find that your methods change depending on the project or do you have one way you always work?

AH: having had the opportunity to touch the yarn in person and take a skein home from TNNA, i knew i wanted to make something soft and luscious with it! at first i thought it would be a small, accessory item. i wasn’t necessarily thinking of a shawl design to begin with. later, i came up with a design that i knew would be enhanced by using these yarns.

i would say i have two muses: stitch patterns and yarn.

sometimes yarn inspires me to look for a pattern and sometimes stitch patterns call to me first and i have to find a yarn to go with them.

KW: If the design came first, what made you chose our yarns for each design?

AH: i began putting stitches together for a wrap design in laceweight yarn and realized that the heavier, slightly fuzzy fibre company yarns were even better suited to i had in mind. i wanted yarn that would enhance the “soft” qualities of the stitch patterns. i love how the fuzz of these yarns fills in the holes of the motifs with just a haze of color. conversely, the softness of these yarns take the edge off what are basically hard-edged geometric motifs of lines and diamonds.

i actually have a birnam wood wrap knit up in a laceweight alpaca/silk yarn as well, but i think the motifs translate MUCH better in the fibre company fingering and sport yarns. i like the scale of the motifs in the heavier yarn; they are bolder and have more impact.

KW: If the yarn came first, in what way did the yarn “inform” the designs?  More specifically, what about the fiber content, gauge, drape, or colors helped you in your design process?

AH: though the yarn did not inspire the design necessarily, i DO think i would always search for motifs that play well with the gauge, fiber, and tactile qualities of this yarn to enhance the things i like about it.

KW: You use a lot of hand-dyed yarns in your designs, but seem to stick to subtly shaded colors, or multis that stick to a cohesive palette.   Is it safe to say you prefer these types of yarns over commercially dyed ones?  If so, what about hand-dyed yarn (and specifically, The Fibre Co yarns!) appeal to you and how do you think they contribute to your designs?

AH: yes, i have to say that i’ve become somewhat addicted to hand-dyed yarns, or at least, those from smaller produces. first and foremost, i find there is a huge difference in the quality of the yarn itself from small producers; it’s brighter, bouncier, softer, and more “alive” than 95% of commercial yarn. the overall quality and performance of the yarn is just better.

most small producers are hand-picking their bases and/or having them milled to their own specifications and the quality control really shows in the behavior of the resulting fabric.

hand-dyed yarns are the work of artists; i love the variations between batches and working with the unique hand of the dyer. every dyer has a style and no two handle the process quite the same way. even dyers whose sensibilities i would say are very similar, end up with vastly-different stock.

and i just LOVE having personal contact with the yarn makers; i can’t say enough how these relationships have influenced my work. those of us that have been working together for a while agree, that we have not only reached new levels of artistic expression through collaboration, but have helped each other build viable businesses as well. it’s very exciting!

KW: For each project, you picked pretty disparate colors from the Fibre Co palette.  Do your color choices reflect a particular “mood” you want to get across in your designs?   More specifically, why did you choose the Cat’s Claw (buttery orangey yellow) and Macaw (deep rich blue) for the Dovecote shawl, and the Grey Pearl (mid tone grey) and Ruby (red-orange) for the Birnum wood stole?

AH: well, color choices are probably an area that i am most likely to go with my “gut”, at least at first, then figure out why later on, hahaha! in the case of the cat’s claw, i just fell in love with it when i saw it hanging in your booth and it stuck with me all through the spring as a great color for a soft triangle shawl. once i had a design composed, i chose a stronger second color (the blue) and for the wrap, another neutral (gray) and a bright color (red) pretty much just by instinct. now that they are all knit up i love every one of them; the strong colors really accentuate the myriad patterns of holes, or negative space, in the work.  and the softer, neutral colors highlight the cushy solid areas.

KW: Is there anything else you would like to add?

AH: thank you again so much for inviting me to work with your yarns; it was a wonderful experience to knit with them and bring them to the attention of my readers. i hope we can work together again in the future!

We really loved working with Anne and hope you enjoy her patterns!

Spotlight On: Terra

Tuesday, September 15th, 2009

As we continue with our yarn spotlight, it seemed fitting to continue with a classic Fibre Company yarn: Terra.  Terra has been a favorite of fans of the Fibre Company for years, and if you have ever seen or knit with it, you will know why!  Terra is a blend of 40% Baby Alpaca, 40% Merino + 20% Silk.  Terra, more than any other Fibre Company yarn, has a very rustic look due to the slubs of the raw silk, but a soft hand which makes it not only a pleasure to look at, but also to knit and wear.  Terra is a worsted weight yarn — the label has a recommended gauge of 18-20 sts/4″ and 98 yards per 50 gram skein and we have even knit it happily at 16 sts/4 inches. The fiber content (mostly alpaca and merino) and yarn properties (a single ply of medium twist) of Terra produces a lofty and medium-weight skein.

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Like all of the Fibre Company Yarns, Terra has a pretty hefty alpaca content, which, as we have said before, adds a ton of softness, drape and warmth.  The merino, in this case, adds warmth and softness as well, but also has a good amount of bounce to it, so depending on the application, the final fabric can have a lot of good structure.  The silk, while pretty common around here (it makes an appearance in 3 out of our 4 lines!), plays a different role in Terra than it does the others.  The silk is spun into the yarn in larger “noils”, which is what creates the nubby texture and flecks, creating the rustic look.  The gorgeous, saturated colors and dyeing technique of Terra also add to this final overall effect.  Although a single ply, Terra has good stitch definition, and due to the fiber content, does not pill in the way most all merino single ply yarns do.

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From our past experience working in yarn stores, we know how to match yarn + pattern for the best possible final result.  Some yarns are great sweater yarns, some are at their best when in baby knits, some work well as a warm outer layers but aren’t meant to be worn next to the skin.  Terra is one of those yarns that works just as well for accessories as it does garments as is soft enough for next-to-skin wear, has great drape + bounce (even we didn’t know that was possible at first!) and is warm without being too heavy.

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Kate’s Springtime Bandit is a perfect example of a successful accessory knit out of Terra.  The gauge for the scarf is 16 sts/4″ — slightly looser than recommended — to create a fabric with a lot of drape and movement, enabling the scarf tot wrap beautifully around the neck.  The texture of the Terra also adds enough organic visual interest to the geometric patterning.  And, as mentioned prior, the softness makes the scarf perfect for next to skin warmth and wear.

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Another pattern that really uses Terra to its best advantage is the Hiker’s Waistcoat, a classic Fibre Company pattern we have re-knit, edited and reformatted as a free pattern. The Hiker’s Waistcoat is a twist on the popular fleece vest, most commonly used as a light and effective layer when outdoors in the changing seasons.  In our version, seed stitch on the sides and interesting shaping are used for a flattering, streamlined and structured vest that looks as good on the trail as it does while walking in the city.  The lightweight fabric adds warmth without added bulk and the texture of the Terra in the Stockinette Stitch creates a beautiful organic effect.

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And, of course, we both have Terra projects on the needles right now.  Kate is knitting a pullover that uses StSt to really show off he qualities of the yarn, and Courtney an accessory with a lot of stitch patterning for texture and dimensionality.   If you haven’t given this classic and beloved Fibre Company yarn a try, find a stockist near you, grab a few skeins, and start knitting!

Spotlight on: Road to China Worsted

Thursday, September 3rd, 2009

As we dive deeper and deeper into our knitting for future patterns, the ability to share what we’ve been up to has decreased even more dramatically than before. (More on that in a bit). We both know that is no fun for a blog, especially one that is supposed to be about knitting, so we thought we would try something new. Each week for the next few weeks, we’re going to do a post not about the knitting, but about the yarn, highlighting a Fibre Company yarn, its properties, qualities, and uses. This week, we wanted to start with Road to China Worsted, a long-standing member of the line.

Road to China Worsted is, like all Fibre Company yarns, a blend of many luxurious, high-quality fibers and each skein is individually kettle dyed to a specific formula created by the original founders, Iain and Daphne. It began its life with Soya and Yak, but evolved to its current (and permanent) permutation as 65% Baby Alpaca, 15% Silk, 10% Camel + 10% Cashmere. The words most commonly used to describe Road to China Worsted are “Luxurious”, “Soft”, “Warm” and “Drapey”.  Road to China Worsted, (RtCW), befitting its name, is a Worsted Weight yarn. The label has a recommended gauge of 18-20 sts/4″ and 69 yards per 50 gram skein and we have even knit it happily at about 16 sts/4″. The fiber content (mostly alpaca and silk) and yarn properties (densely spun and plied) of RtCW makes it heavier, hence the fewer yards per skein. In other words, you are still getting the same amount of fiber, but a skein with more weight (and drape) to it.  And, finally, the yarn construction.  RtCW is a 3-ply yarn, meaning it is comprised of 3 individual strands of yarn that are twisted (or plied) together.

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So…what does all this mean for you as a knitter?

Lets start with the fiber content.  Like many Fibre Company yarns, the majority of RtCW is alpaca.  The alpaca is warmer than sheep’s wool and has no lanolin, and is quite silky and has drape. Silk, by its nature, is a flat fiber, so it reflects light, which creates a subtle sheen to the yarn. It also is known for its strength, drape and softness. The Camel adds…well, warmth and softness, but no added weight because it is such a light fiber. And finally, Cashmere, which is a warm and soft (there seems to be a running theme here…) fiber, which is also lighter in weight.

Due to its fiber content, RtCW is a perfect yarn for projects that are worn next to the skin. It is also a yarn, that although drapey, due to its construction, has good stitch definition, so it is perfect for Fair Isle or knit and purl patterning.  We also love knitting it tightly in order to create a fabric with good structure and all of the aforementioned properties.  For many of our Kelbourne Woolens patterns, we have been focusing on accessories (they are cute, quick knits, perfect introductions to the yarns, and make it easy for LYS to have a sample on hand), and while we have both knit sweaters out of it with great results, we believe RtCW is the perfect accessory yarn.

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The Mi’raj Shrug (rav link here) is an example of a project that really uses RtCW to its best advantage.  First, the garment itself is an incredibly versatile accessory that provides just the right amount of warmth without overheating the wearer.  We have found this time of year — unpredictable night and morning weather, still over air-conditioned stores and trains, and warm and sunny days — just begs for an accessory such as this.

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For the garment to really “work”, there needs to be drape in the final fabric.  Otherwise, the fit would be uncomfortable and stiff and awkward at the arm to back transition.  Because it is meant to be worn over sleeveless or short-sleeved shirt, the fabric has to also be soft enough for next-to-skin contact — all of these requirements are easily fulfilled by RtCW!

Another project that uses RtCW to great success is the Opus Spicatum hat (rav link here).  When designing this little beret, Kate had a few things in mind: she wanted to show off the richly shaded tones, something that would keep her head warm, and also a hat that would play up the drape of the yarn instead of work against it.

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The end result was a slightly slouchy beret in a Fair Isle pattern.  The stitch definition makes the patter really pop, and it is soft enough to be worn next to the skin and warm enough for winter wear.

A blog post wouldn’t be complete without some obscure photos of current works in progress.  At this time, we both have a RtCW project on the needles.  Kate’s is a loosely knit accessory and Courtney’s is a tightly knit garment — together, they are perfect examples of the versatility of this really wonderful yarn.

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Artisan Yarns: a note

Monday, June 8th, 2009

With so many lovely hand-dyed yarns out there most of us have gotten used to dealing with the variegated yarns pooling, striping and other anomalies.  As a result we all have different ways of coping with the shift from skein to skein in a hand-dyed multi and take precautions when knitting something that takes multiple skeins.  When we worked in LYS’s for years we did a ton of customer education to ensure that folks would buy enough yarn, since that one rare color and lot of color of Koigu, for example, would never ever look the same again.  In order to eliminate any pooling or skein to skein issues, we taught customers to alternate skeins by knitting two rows with one ball and of another, maybe for the whole skein or for a few inches before attaching a new ball.

The Fibre Company yarns, however, are not variegated.  These two skeins of Organik in Desert Canyon, for example, look pretty darn similar.

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So why am I talking about variegated yarn on this blog?  (Nope, sorry, we are not introducing handpainted multis).  Although our yarns do not typically have more than one color in a skein, each skein is individually hand-dyed in order to create the gorgeous color saturation and tonal depth and layering we are known for.  As a result, we highly recommend you don’t treat our yarns the same way as you would commercially/mechanically dyed yarns.  Each skein is unique, and even dyelots within the same bag will have slight variation between skeins.  For example, these two skeins of Terra in Logwood Purple have visible variation between (and within) the skeins.

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The dyelot number does tell us important information: the day the yarn was dyed and what other skeins it was dyed with in the same pot (Hence, the “lot”).  If you are making a sweater, or anything that requires more than one ball, try to buy within dyelots but also be sure to alternate skeins if you are concerned about slight variation between skeins.  It may seem like a pain, but it is less of a pain than having to rip out half of the front of a cardigan.

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Ripped three times! [Insert crying emoticon here.]

Hopefully this little bit of info will help you to enjoy Fibre Company yarns just that much more!  If you have any questions about this, or want more info about a specific yarn or color and how it behaves, don’t hesitate to shoot us a line and we would be glad to help!