Knitscene Winter Spring 2010 - Conifer Shawl

March 9th, 2010

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Image © Interweave Press

Although we’re a little late to the show (can you tell March is “catch-up” month?), we’re really happy to announce Kate’s newest published pattern in Knitscene, the Conifer Shawl (rav link).  The inspiration for this shawl came when Kate was on vacation with her family in Maine.  Every summer, they leave the hot, humid city and spend the end of August on the rocky shores of Flanders Bay.  Part beach, part woods, it is a quiet, cool and amazing place to spend the late weeks of summer.  (And, typically, a place where Kate finds the time to finish a good chunk of knitting).

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We  know Kate looks sad.  She is not.  When she smiles in these sort of photos, she tends to look a little crazy.  This is also not the gorgeous rocky shores of Maine, but her backyard in Philadelphia.

This past summer, Kate’s vacation was particularly exciting, as it was part family trip, part mini-honeymoon and part celebration, as we were in the final stages of working out our contract with Interweave for a book featuring our designs and Fibre Company yarns.  We’ve been alluding to it for months now, and now that the projects are knit and we can take a gulp of air, we’re proud to announce that we are doing a book with Interweave!  More on that in the next post, including the title, focus and theme of the projects and a few tidbits.

The shawl was designed and knit while Kate was in Maine.  The sample is knit out of Canopy Worsted in Chiclet Tree, which is perfect yarn for knitting of this sort, as it is soft, drapey and has great stitch definition.

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Image © Interweave Press

We really love the way the shawl is styled in the magazine — all 3 photos show of the versatility of an accessory such as this.  We both wear shawls and scarves for many months out of the year, either as functional additional warming layer or accessory purely for “looks”, and really like to mix traditionally inspired knitwear such as this paired with a more modern wardrobe.

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Image © Interweave Press

The shawl is also part of a really informative article by Miriam Felton on the construction of triangular shawls , and this one, like the Springtime Bandit, is an example of “top down” construction.  The shawl is designed to be a manageable “kerchief” or scarf size, but the construction lends itself really well to modifications, as each section can be worked as many or as few times as the knitter would like to customize the shawl to fit his/her size preference.

Kate found herself last Thursday — for the first time in 8 months! eep! — without a knitting deadline looming over her head.  She absolutely loves the graphic look of lace on larger yarn and needles, but wanted to change things up a bit as she already knit the sample shawl.  So, armed with a few skeins of Road to China Light in one of the new colors, Peridot, she started knitting the Conifer shawl at a slightly smaller gauge with more repeats of the main Lattice Chart.

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The photo above is 4 repeats of the Lattice Section, and measures about 26″ wide and 17″ along the diagonal, stretched but unblocked.  The original is 30″ wide and 19″ along the diagonal for the Conifer section, so she will probably do a 5th or 6th repeat, plus the 1-12 rows required for the transition.  Even with the smaller gauge, it is proving to be a quick knit, so hopefully next week there will be a FO post to show!

Go grab a copy of Knitscene, some Canopy Worsted (or Road to China Light!) and knit one for yourself!

An Interview with: Anne Kuo Lukito

March 4th, 2010

This post is a long time coming, and we’re so glad to have found the time to finally put it up!

We met Anne, of Crafty Diversions and the Handicraft Cafe at our first TNNA in January of 2009.  She has always been a huge fan and supporter of the Fibre Company and our yarns.  Last fall, she contacted us about using Canopy Fingering in a new and exciting project she was working on, her Liberation pattern collection of six hats.  Since we love hats — and the idea in general, read more about it here — we were delighted to provide yarn support for not one, but two, of her designs.

The first design, Septima Clark, features Canopy Fingering in Yerba Mate.

anne-septima-clarkphotograph courtesy of Anne Kuo Lukito

The second, Alice Paul, features Canopy Fingering in Paw Paw (pictured below) and Cat’s Claw

alicepaul-1479photograph courtesy of Anne Kuo Lukito

We were lucky enough to have both hats in our both at TNNA in January, and everyone who saw them — including us! — was really impressed with the attention to detail and craftsmanship in design.  Both hats have been on our “must knit” list for some time.

Okay, onto the interview!

Kelbourne Woolens: Let’s get back to basics.  When did you start knitting and what led you to open both the Crafty Diversions pattern shop and Handicraft Cafe yarn store?  What came first the patterns or the store?

Anne Kuo Lukito: Good question! I think the patterns came first, but I didn’t think to do it seriously at first and Crafty Diversions just started out as a blog to show off my stuff since at that time, I didn’t know anyone else that knit.  I only started knitting about 5 years ago and taught myself first from a terrible book that told me that left-handed people can knit like left-handed crocheters by using a mirror. I quickly found out the limitations of that method!

The store came later. I always had a dream of opening some sort of artsy-fartsy boutique / hippie coffeehouse. So, I began thinking more seriously about it and decided to try it.  Well, we were slow getting started but now we have and sell through our website. However, the economy, as you know, has not been very good and we’ve postponed opening a brick and mortar store for now. Once the economy is in a more stable upswing, plans to open a physical store is something that we’ll definitely be re-visiting.

KW: You have a large variety of techniques covered in your knitting patterns, and all types of designs — accessories, sweaters, home decor, etc.  Do you have a particular item you like designing best, or technique that you are most drawn to, or are you a more “equal opportunity” designer?

AKL: I do love accessory projects because they are so versatile and can be worn almost any time of the year, especially hats.  With sweaters and garments, I personally tend to gravitate towards a more fitted look that may have 1-2 key elements without being too fussy. As far as techniques that I’m drawn to…that’s a harder question. Generally, I am really drawn to alternative construction and techniques and I also like to challenge myself into doing things that I wouldn’t normally think to do, if that makes any sense.

KW: We’re so happy you use the Canopy Fingering for 2 of the hats in your Liberation collection.  What about the yarns do you think made them great for knitting your hats?

AKL: What’s not to love about Canopy?!? Seriously, Canopy Fingering was one of the first yarns I thought of to include. The colors are fantastic and it’s one of those yarns that I’d like to sleep with everyday. (Road to China ranks pretty high on my sleeping list too.)

KW: Let’s talk about your design process. For these two designs, Alice Paul and Septima Clark, did you have a project in mind and then choose our yarns, or did you first swatch and then design a project specific to the yarn’s properties? Do you find that your methods change depending on the project or do you have one way you always work? If the design came first, what made you chose our yarns for each design? If the yarn came first, in what way did the yarn “inform” the designs?  More specifically, what about the fiber content, gauge, drape, or colors helped you in your design process?

AKL: My design process started with 2 rough sketches: Amelia Earhart and Septima Clark. The moment I envisioned Septima Clark, I knew that I wanted to use Canopy Fingering (CF)  - it was a very easy decision for me and I did not even swatch ahead of time to see if it’d work, because I really didn’t need to. I had been fondling the CF in the shop for some time and had been dying to use it for a project. I knew that the sheen, texture and drape of the merino/alpaca blend in CF would lend itself beautifully to a beret, especially knit at a slightly looser gauge. The hardest part of choosing the yarn for Septima Clark was choosing the color! I wanted a deeper, earthy color and finally settled on Yerba Mate for the subtle melange colors.

The design and yarn decision for Alice Paul was a little more challenging. Alice Paul was one of the last designs in the collection. I sketched out the idea, but I hemmed and hawed for some time because I was not sure how it would work. What I did know was that for it to really work, selecting just the right yarn was imperative. Initially, I thought that I would also use CF for Eleanor Roosevelt, a slouchy hat with 2 shirred panels and a visor. While that would have worked out well, I really did not want to use CF for the 2 slouchy beret-type hats in the Liberation Collection. I then thought about Alice Paul again and how structured and rigid the hat itself could appear, which was not what I wanted. I wanted the hat to have a sense of structure with a nice balance of softness, so I turned to CF. My main concern with the hat’s construction was to make sure that the visor added additional interest without looking hard and busy, so I swatched and worked a prototype test piece of the visor with CF. The result was more amazing than I had hoped or imagined! The fiber content of CF gives any fabric created from the yarn a nice soft drape and a light halo, which was exactly what Alice Paul needed to juxtapose the more structured look of the shirred panel and shirred visor.

KW: You have been a stockist of the Fibre Company yarns for a long time.  What about The Fibre Co yarns appeal to you and how do you think they contribute to your designs?

AKL: What attracted me to The Fibre Company initially was how refreshing, earthy and colorful all the yarns within each line seemed. After I met and talked to Daphne and got a sense of her wonderful character and passion for her company (which was fairly new at the time), I fell in love with the company even more.

Shortly after stocking the Fibre Company yarns, Savannah DK and Bulky quickly became one of my favorites. (Canopy was not out yet at the time).  At that same time, I was starting to submit designs to publications. I used Savannah in 2 designs that I submitted, and to my delightful surprise, both were selected for publication. One was Morgan, which uses Savannah DK and was published in Knitty, Fall 2008. The second was Mermaid, which uses Savannah Bulky and was published in 101 Luxury One-Skein Wonders.

KW: For each project, you picked different colors from the Fibre Co palette.  With a yarn shop full of beautiful yarn, you must have many many options to choose from.  How does color inform your design process or do you just pick based off of what colors you like on that particular day?   More specifically, why did you choose the Cat’s Claw (buttery orangey/greeny yellow) and yerba mate (deep rich greeny-brown) for the hats?


AKL: As I mentioned earlier, choosing the yarn was easier than choosing the color! No kidding, I really love all the Canopy colors. Generally when choosing colors for samples, I cannot always choose my favorite colors, because first of all, that means many of my patterns will all have the same colors. Another consideration in choosing colors for the samples is making sure that the colors will photograph well. As much as I love deep, dark colors, like chocolate brown, burgundy and red, those colors do not photograph well, especially with finer and more intricate details.

I chose Yerba Mate for it’s depth and richness and for the fact that the color would lend a nice sophistication to Septima Clark, but it was very hard to photograph. Even though the details of Septima Clark as less intricate than that of Alice Paul, I spent twice as much time photographing the hat. For Alice Paul, I really wanted a lighter color so that the textures of the hat would photograph well relatively easily. So for Alice Paul, I chose to work samples in both Paw-Paw and Cat’s Claw.  I wasn’t going for an animal theme - that was pure coincidence.

If photography was not an issue, I may have chosen some of the darker colors in the collection. Honestly, if I find some time later, I would love to work another sample of Alice Paul or Septima Clark in Macaw or Acai for myself.  I almost chose Macaw for Alice Paul, but I was afraid the darker blue would not photograph well enough to show all the details, but in person, I know that it would be fantastic.

KW: Is there anything else you would like to add?

AKL: I think I’ve said enough already and may have been to verbose! Thank you so much for your support of my work and my designs!

Again, thanks so much Anne, for taking the time to do this little interview with us and sharing a little about your design process!

***
Are you a LYSO, LYSW or designer - new or veteran - who has knit a project or designed something using Fibre Company Yarns? If so, shoot us an email at info {at} kelbournewoolens {dot} com and we would love to feature you on our blog!

Fiddlehead Continued…

February 15th, 2010

Sorry for the loooong pause in the tale of this sweater.  We have been furiously knitting for our book deadlines (more on that soon!) and we have finally come up for a breath of air.  Courtney has actually not  even touched this poor lonely Canopy Worsted sweater in almost 2 months, and is so excited to have it tagging along with her on the trolley to and from work and sitting with her in the evenings after the baby’s in bed.  So, if you don’t remember what it is, take a peek here.  It became very clear that the original goal of being able to wear the sweater at TNNA didn’t quite pan out timing-wise, but perhaps it’ll get finished up for the knitting Olympics.  A girl can dream, can’t she?

The next task in line for this sweater was the waist shaping, which is optional of course.  The baby size doesn’t include it, for obvious reasons as babies more closely resemble a soccer ball than an hourglass.  Courtney worked 18 rows of ribbing at the bottom, and then worked 32 rows in pattern to the first set of waist shaping decreases.  This point is where you are going to decide where the sweater falls on you at the hip.  For Courtney, she measures up from where she wants the sweater to fall to her belly button.  This measurement, give or take, is the length to the first waist shaping decrease.  Then, she measures the distance from her belly button to the center of her waist.  This is the length in which she has to work the decreases.  For this sweater, she decided to work only two decrease rows 5 rows apart.  Also, the decreases are worked one stitch in from either selvedge, which makes the sweater easier to sew and creates a nicer line along the edge.  So, once you have decided where your first decrease row is you will work:  K1, SSK, work in pattern to the last 3 sts of the row, K2tog, K1.  Why the SSK and K2tog?  This makes the decreases slant inwards, towards your middle which–if you were really looking–creates a more slim silhouette.  You can work as many decrease rows as you like, but how to decide how many is right for you?  Courtney only did two decrease rows, decreasing 4 sts total, or less than 1″ decreased for the total circumference.  Why?  Well, her hip measurement and waist measurement are more close than different (38″ hip, 31″ waist).  If, for instance, your hip measurement was 43″ and your waist measurement was 29″ you may want to do more decreasing over more rows.

Waist Shaping
Waist Shaping

Now, after all the decreases are worked one has to work increases back to either the same number you had, or more or less depending on your body type.  You may want to work extra increases to accomodate a large bust or fewer to accommodate a more pear shaped figure.  Courtney worked the increases in the same proportion as the decreases and worked them as follows:  Inc 1 (Kfb), work in pattern to last 2 sts, Inc 1, K1.  The two increase rows, like the two decrease rows, are spaced 5 rows apart.  However, after the last decrease row 12 rows were worked straight to the first increase row.  Having some extra room between the decreasing and increasing creates a more sloping and elegant curve.

After the increase rows are all worked, it’s time to work straight in the pattern to the armhole.  Again, shockingly, the number of inches here is up to you, the designer.  Courtney is headed to about 5.5″ more after the last increase row–but will spend a little time holding it up and checking that measurement.  It’s all flexible!

Next up…armhole shaping!  Stay tuned!

Haitian Relief Auction - a joint auction with Kristen Rengren

January 21st, 2010

Like all of you, we were devastated to hear of the tragic earthquake in Haiti last week.  Many knitters immediately joined a fund-raising effort in order to support the aid to this country and it has been wonderful to see and hear of the tens of thousands of dollars that have been donated so far.  Even when listening to the news this morning, it is obvious that there is a long long way to go, and most are still suffering in need of basic medical care, food and fresh water, highlighting the need for continued support, financial and otherwise, to this country.

As a result, when Kristen Rengren, author of the inimitable book, Vintage Baby Knits, and someone we admire greatly for her wit, talent and seemingly endless energy, contacted us about doing a joint auction to raise funds that would go directly to supporting the relief effort, we were immediately on board.

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(Photograph Courtesy of Kristen Rengren)

The auction is for a custom-fit pattern tailored specifically for you of the beautiful Harlow Sweater (ravelry link), and enough Road to China Light to knit one in one of the 7 color choices shown below. Harlow is a sweater that looks wonderful on all body types, and the addition of the custom sizing just for you, makes this a really amazing prize.

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And the kicker?  Kristen will throw in a signed copy of Vintage Baby Knits as well — an added bonus worth its own auction!

The rules and auction itself can be found here, via the group forum and occurs tonight — yes! tonight! — from 7 - 10 pm EST.

We hope that you’re as excited about this auction as we were happy to participate.

Spotlight on: Organik

December 18th, 2009

We continue our yarn spotlight this week with Organik, a single ply worsted weight yarn that we feel, sadly, does not get its fair share of accolades!

Organik began its life as a single ply 70% Organic New Zealand Wool, 15% Alpaca + 15% Silk and had a different “hand” than most other Fibre Company yarns (read: it was a beautiful yarn, but just wasn’t as soft as people were used to!) and Daphne and Iain quickly went to work to find a source for a wool that was organic and had a soft hand.  In early 2007, the “new” Organik with 70% Organic Merino, 15% Alpaca + 15% Silk and its corresponding colors were introduced to the market and we have never looked back!

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Organik has the least Alpaca content of all of Fibre Company yarns, and its mostly merino content and smooth construction makes it great for items that need great stitch definition and/or items that need a lot of structure and shape.  It, like all other Fibre Company yarns, is perfect for next to skin wear.  Think sweaters, cables, hats, mittens, Fair Isle…pretty much anything you can think of!  And, unlike many other single ply merino-based yarns on the market, the 30% alpaca + silk helps this single ply from pilling horribly.  (The silk works double duty by also adding some nice sheen as well!)

One pattern that shows off the versatility of Organik is Kate’s Herringbone Pullover. (Ravel it!).  The slipped stitch colorwork on the front of the sweater looks great in the sharp contrast of Loam (dark brown) and Arctic Tundra (white) and the stitch definition makes the herringbone pattern really pop.  The sleeves and back of the sweater are in stockinette stitch, which looks really great in the evenly spun yarn.

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Another project that really shows off the versatility of Organik is the 6th Street Scarf (Ravel it!) by Justine Moody of Angelfire Studios.  We always love when we receive calls from Justine, because it usually means she is super excited about one of our yarns, either a project she just knit or a new shipment that just came into her shop.  Her latest phone call was no exception — and we were especially delighted when her excitement over her most recent order of Organik came with a great scarf pattern she knit.   The 6th Street Scarf takes just 4 skeins of Organik, so it would also be a great last minute gift for the holidays!
6th-street-scarf
Believe it or not, this is the second to last post in our Yarn Spotlights!  Last but not least features Road to China Light, the newest member of the line, but a yarn that is fast becoming a fan favorite!

Canopy Worsted Revisited

December 9th, 2009

A few weeks ago while noodling around on Ravelry we came across this amazing sweater, knit out of Canopy Worsted.

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It was, coincidentally, knit by Sonali (knittingowl on ravelry) who used to live in Philadelphia and bought the Canopy Worsted to make this sweater at the local yarn store we also frequent.  Small world!  Sonali is now living and wearing her Canopy Worsted sweater in Berlin.  She emailed us a few weeks ago to say:

I wore that sweater just yesterday while I waited for hours in the cold and rain to watch the celebrations for the anniversary of the fall of the wall here in Berlin. I knew it was going to be freezing and I figured the sweater was one of the warmest things I had, with all that lovely alpaca, and it did a great job.

The yarn seemed perfectly suited to this sweater.  It has the drape needed to allow the cowl to fall just so, it’s soft enough to wear next to the skin, perfect for a fitted sweater.  We sent a ravelry message to the sweater’s designer, Beth Silverstein (philosoknitter on ravelry) to ask her more about her fantastic design.

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Beth has been blogging at www.philosoknitter.blogspot.com since 2005 and, like many of us, started blogging to keep in touch with friends and family who are scattered far and wide.  Francis Revisited is a free download on Ravelry, and has been very popular, with over 400 versions on Ravelry alone.  Her design was mostly inspired by the minimally processed alpaca, from the alpaca named Frances.  She says:

When I saw Frances I fell in love. I loved the natural color of the alpaca, it was this perfect heather of grays and tans, and it was so soft and unique. Buying local and organic is important to me, and I try to do it whenever I can, whether at the grocery store or when buying yarn. My favorite stash items and projects are usually made with undyed wool or alpaca or naturally dyed fiber. When I visit a yarn shop while traveling I usually try find something that is connected to the area, whether locally produced, spun, dyed, whatever. Something that will help me connect to that place.

We couldn’t agree more.  Yarn choice ought to be a primary inspiration for design.  One’s choice of yarn will greatly affect the final outcome, fit and style, of your garment.  Beth goes on to say:

I love alpaca for the project because at such a loose gauge the sweater is light but really, really warm and the alpaca gives the perfect drape for the cowl neck.  I think they are so classic and elegant but not over the top, so almost anyone can pull it off effortlessly and look stylish.

Thanks to Beth and Sonali for your participation!

Spotlight on: Canopy Worsted

November 30th, 2009

We’re continuing with our Canopy theme this week with a spotlight on Canopy Worsted, the (aptly named) worsted weight cousin to Canopy Fingering.

Many of the same properties apply when talking about the Worsted and Fingering — it is the same wonderful blend of 50% Baby Alpaca, 30% Merino and 20% Bamboo. It has a smooth texture and is a 3 ply yarn with a medium-twist which provides great stitch definition as well as strength and sheen so the yarn holds up well and does not pill easily.  Canopy Worsted was first introduced in the 10 original “springy”colors, and this June we added another 10 colors to the line to create what we feel is a really beautiful and well-rounded palette.

Canopy Worsted is a little bit lighter in weight than Terra, Road to China Worsted and Organik.  When knitting sweaters — and we think Canopy Worsted is a perfect sweater yarn! — or an item where we want good definition and structure we like to knit it at a gauge between 20-22 sts/4 inches.  If we’re doing something where we want drape — a scarf or cowl, for instance, we loosen it up a bit and sometimes even knit it as loose as 16 sts/4″.  Canopy Worsted is an incredibly versatile yarn gauge-wise — but ultimately it is up to you to find the drape and knitted fabric you like best!

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Like all of the Fibre Company Yarns — especially, as you can well imagine, Canopy Fingering — Canopy Worsted has a decent alpaca content, which, as we have said before, adds a ton of softness, drape and warmth.  The merino adds warmth and softness as well, but also has a little more “memory”, so depending on the application, the final fabric can have a lot of structure.  The bamboo, unique to the Canopy lines, ads a wonderful sheen and drape to the yarn, and produces a unique subtle heathery dye effect due to the application and type of dyes used.

One pattern that shows off the versatility of Canopy Worsted is the newly published and popular 5th Avenue Scarf (ravel it!) by Margaux Pena (aka tentenknits).  We have always been a big fan of Margaux, and love seeing her and Patricia of Patricia’s Yarns, in person at TNNA and the Sheep & Wool Festivals and were doubly excited when Margaux showed us her new scarf at Rhinebeck.

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The 5th Avenue scarf is a perfect accessory for fall and winter, as it provides the warmth of a full-size scarf with a multitude of styling options.  We love it both ways, either draped around the neck in a big loop or as shown below wrapped a few times around the neck.  Kate was the passenger in a long drive this past Thanksgiving weekend and is in the middle of some projects that either require a lot of thinking or adjusting charts in excel as she knits, or some other element that makes them not so great for a car ride, so she cast on for her very own 5th Avenue Scarf in Palm Blud, a very light blue.  She is already a few skeins in and totally in love, so hopes to finish by this weekend!

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(Photos courtesy of Margaux Pena)

Another pattern that is a wonderful use of Canopy Worsted is the Give a Hoot mittens designed by our friend, Jocelyn Tunney.  These mittens were one of the first Kelbourne Woolens Free Patterns that we published and we continue to be delighted with their popularity!

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And, as some of you may already know, Courtney is knitting an adult version of her adorable Fiddlehead Pullover as featured recently on the Purl Bee in Canopy Worsted.  We are doing thigs a little differently this time, and she is putting up a little tutorial as she knits based off of the original numbers for the baby version.  The first installment is here (scroll down a bit), and if all goes well she should be posting the next step in a few days!

Fiddlehead Pullover on The Purl Bee!

November 20th, 2009

We are very excited to share a Purl Bee exclusive, the Fiddlehead Pullover with you!  Courtney designed this sweet pullover for infants 0-6 or 6-12 months and it was featured last week on the Purl Bee website in conjunction with The Fibre Company being the featured sponsor for the month of November!  (Be sure to click the “Featured Sponsor” link — you can enter to win some amazing free prizes!

The Fiddlehead Pullover uses Canopy Fingering, just 2 or 3 skeins, which was coincidentally our featured yarn spotlight last week– talk about perfect timing!

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The sweater is knit in pieces and seamed together, and both shoulders have a buttoned closure to make it easier to fit it over baby’s head.  Courtney knows from experience how difficult dressing a floppy little bundle o’ baby can be, and promised she would never knit a pullover for babies ever again unless there were buttons on the shoulders.

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It is shown in our favorite color of Canopy Fingering, Fern.  It’s a perfect baby green–not too blue and not too yellow and perfectly gender neutral!

Don’t have a little one to knit for?  Some readers commented on The Purl Bee that they would like to have an adult sized version of the pattern for themselves and we couldn’t agree more.  We thought a blog tutorial and knit-a-long was in order.  So, over the coming weeks we will be knitting the prototype and talking about how to adapt the pattern for your size and specifications.  The tutorial is designed for you to take charge of your knitting, like a choose your own adventure.  At the end of it all, we will format a traditional pattern you will be able to download from Kelbourne Woolens.  Those of you who just can’t wait, and like a little adventure, grab your needles, visit one of our Canopy Worsted stockists, read on and cast on!

Courtney ran some numbers and knit some swatches last night and here’s what she found: if you follow the 0-6 month size and cast on 86 stitches at a gauge of 5 sts per inch using Canopy Worsted the finished bust circumference is 33.6, which is a women’s small (or perfect for the hard-to-knit-for ‘tween’ in your life).  The 6-12 month size, with a cast on of 94, will give you a 37.6″ circumference.  The difference in stitches for the two sizes is 8 stitches so let’s assume that if we keep increasing our cast on by 8 sts or 1.6″ we’ll be good to go.  (Cast on 102 for a 40.8″ bust, 110 for a 44″ bust, 118 for a 47.2″ bust, 126 sts for a 50.4″ bust, etc). Keep adding 8 to the cast on number, divide that by 5 (the number of stitches per inch) and multiply by 2 (once for the front and once for the back) and you’ll have your finished circumference.

Courtney cast on for the 38″ bust and her bust measures 39″.  She wants the sweater to be fitted, and plans on adding some waist shaping to give it a better fit as well.  (She has already imagined wearing the sweater with a nice tailored pair of slacks and little heels at TNNA).  Ultimately, the fit you choose is up to you — you can go for a comfy oversized fit, or a more tailored tighter fit.  A good “average fit” would be about 2″ positive ease, or, if your bust is a 42″ and you cast on 110 for a finished measurement of 44″ you would have a comfortable, well fitting sweater.

adult-fiddlehead

For the adult sweater, work in a k1, p1 rib for about 3″, but the length of the ribbing is up to you in the end.  In a more fitted sweater we think a slightly longer ribbing looks best, and for larger sizes, a longer ribbing is good as well for better proportioning.  For a looser fitted sweater you could get away with ribbing for just a couple of inches.  After you have worked your ribbing for the desired length, you will begin the body panel.   The center panel pattern is a multiple of 7 sts+4, which is NOT the same thing as a multiple of 11.  Why?  Well, this particular panel is 18 sts, which is 7 repeats 2 times (14 sts) plus 4 sts.  There is 4 seed sts on either side of each mock cable.  4 seed, 3 cable, 4 seed, 3 cable, 4 seed.  Here’s a hint, though.  If you are making a larger size you may want to add another mock cable to the body panel.  Now, symmetrically you have to add two, one on either side.  So you could work a center panel of 18 sts as written (which amounts to 3.6″ panel) or you could work 32 sts of the center panel, which is 6.4″ wide.  If we were making a 50″ sweater we would want the wider center panel to balance out the stockinette on either side.  When you start working the center panel — which will be either 18 or 32 sts depending on what you decide is best for you –  you have to center it.  For the first two sizes and an 18 st panel, the numbers are the same as in the original pattern.  For the other  sizes, you will have to subtract the center panel sts–again, 18 OR 32–from your cast on number.  Cast on 126?  Want a wider 32 st center panel?  126-32=94.  Now, divide the answer by 2: 94/2=47.  So you would work k47, [work center panel], k47.  One more time.  Did you cast on 118 sts?  Want to work a narrower 18 st center panel?  118-18=100/2=50.  So, k50, [work center panel], k50.  Great!

So, go cast on!  What are you waiting for?  Stay tuned for waist shaping…

Spotlight on: Canopy Fingering

October 26th, 2009

Whew.  Sorry for the radio silence there.

Where were we?  Ah, yes.  Yarn Spotlights.  We have had Canopy Fingering next on the list to feature, and it turns out to be perfect timing!

While we usually are particularly in love with whichever yarn we are knitting with at that moment (and as this is being typed, Kate has a sweater in Canopy Worsted, a sweater in Terra, a hat in Road to China Light and a hat in Organik on the needles, and Courtney has a hat in Canopy Worsted, a sweater in Organik, and just finished a sweater in Road to China Worsted, so you can see there is a lot of love to go around) Canopy Fingering continues to be a constant favorite here at Kelbourne Woolens.  It is a newer yarn in the line, but quickly has become popular with shawl, sock, accessory — and even sweater — knitters alike.

Canopy Fingering is a wonderful blend of 50% Baby Alpaca, 30% Merino and 20% Bamboo. It has a smooth texture and is a 3 ply yarn with a medium-twist which provides great stitch definition.  In its first incarnation, the yarn was called “Canopy Sport” but has a recommended gauge of 32-36 sts/4 inches.  One of the first things we did was re-name the yarn “Fingering”, but didn’t actually change anything about it.  Some of you may come across skeins or have some with the old labels stashed — have no fear, it is the exact same yarn as today and an be worked with the patterns support and new colors!  The combination of the fiber content and construction, even in a finer weight, make Canopy Fingering a really versatile yarn.  We think it works well knit as loosely as 6 sts/inch all the way to a tight 9 sts/inch.

canopyfingeringfern11

Like all of the Fibre Company Yarns, Canopy Fingering has a decent alpaca content, which, as we have said before, adds a ton of softness, drape and warmth.  The merino adds warmth and softness as well, but also has a little more “memory”, so depending on the application, the final fabric can have a lot of structure.  The bamboo, unique to the Canopy lines, ads a wonderful sheen and drape to the yarn, and produces a unique subtle heathery dye effect due to the application and type of dyes used.

One pattern that shows off the versatility of Canopy Fingering is Kate’s popular Selbu Modern beret. With its wonderful stitch definition, perfect amount of drape and subtly shaded colors, the beret works up beautifully in two colors.  Because of the stacked Fair Isle pattern, it looks great in a more traditional subtle colorway, shown below, or in a funkier one such as acai and mint.

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Another pattern that is a wonderful use of Canopy Fingering is the Lucille baby sweater and bonnet.  The lace pattern blocks out beautifully and because of its next-to-skin softness, it is perfect for use on the sometimes sensitive skin of new babes, and the subtle colors evoke a wonderfully vintage feel.

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We absolutely love the versatility of Canopy fingering — it was extremely hard picking just two patterns that highlight the properties of this great yarn! Luckily, we didn’t have to, as it is also featured pretty heavily in the new Interweave Knits Holiday Gifts magazine, on newsstands now!

The three patterns in the magazine really beautifully highlight the versatility of Canopy Fingering.  First, the Family of Hats, by Catherine Shields, is actually a set of patterns in three different shapes and color possibilities.  We, to be expected, are partial to the center, ‘beret’ version, but also love the earflaps and longer, slouchy look of the other two!

family-of-hats

The next pattern is the Nuneh Mittens by our very own Courtney!  These mittens utilize the Armenian Knitting technique and produce a wonderfully soft and warm yet light fabric.  The mittens feature a wintery motif of a tree next to a quaint cabin with a smokestack that evolves into falling snowflakes.

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And last but not least, there is a beautiful Herrigbone Kimono by the queen of vintage baby knits, Kristen Rengren.  We love the stitch structure and wrap around construction of this beautiful baby cardigan.  The addition of the red buttons ads just the right amount of whimsy — we cannot wait to see the color and button combinations people come up with!

herringbone-kimono

As you can see, Canopy Fingering is a great versatile yarn — if you haven’t yet we highly recommend you give it a try!  We know you will fall in love.

An Interview with: Anne Hanson

October 2nd, 2009

We are happy to interrupt our yarn spotlight postings with an interview with Anne Hanson, the talented and lovely designer!

We meet Anne at our very first TNNA in January and were delighted to be able to put a few skeins of yarn into her hands.  As the time went by and we became busier and busier, every once and a while we would think to ourselves “hmmm, I wonder if Anne liked the yarn?”  Luckily enough, we soon found out not only did she like it, she designed two gorgeous patterns featuring Canopy Fingering and Road to China Light and recently debuted them on her website.

dovecote381_72dpi

Dovecote is a triangular shawl designed in two sizes knit out of Canopy Fingering.  The shawl is knit top-down with a sawtooth knit on edging. The large sample modeled by Anne is knit out of Cat’s Claw, a buttery yellow with subtle hits of peach and green, and the smaller out of Macaw, a deep rich blue with hints of purple.  You can read more about her lovely description of the shawl here.

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The Birnum Wood Wrap is a rectangular stole knit in Road to China Light based off of similar motifs and named after Shakespeare’s Birnam Wood.

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It is constructed from either end and grafted in the center.  You can read more about her lovely description of the wrap here.

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(all images from Anne Hanson. Thanks, Anne!)

In conjunction with the release of her patterns, we asked Anne if we could interview her a little bit about her design process.  Read on + Enjoy!

KW: Thanks so much for taking the time to talk about your work with us!  Your shawls are really beautiful and we’re so happy you chose to design them using Fibre Co. yarns.

AH: thank you so much; it was a real compliment to me when, at TNNA you flagged me down to say hello and introduce yourselves; i was completely seduced by the yarns you showed me at the time!

KW: Let’s get back to basics.  You currently have over 150 (!) designs to your name.  When did you start knitting and what led you to become such a prolific designer?

AH: i started knitting as a small child; my grandma taught at around the age of four years. i was attracted to the stitch patterns in the items she knit and wanted to make them myself.

i also began to sew and embroider in the same year and worked at all of those needlecrafts while growing up; during my teens i became interested in creating garments from my own designs. i worked in the fashion business during my 20s and 30s and was encouraged by various designers to “do something with my knitting”. but i was shy and lacked the confidence to really put it out there.

i’ve always had lot of ideas in any creative thing that i took up; more than i can ever work on at one time. inspiration has never been a problem for me. in fact, if anything, my biggest challenge was editing and focusing my thoughts and training myself to turn them into good final designs.

it wasn’t until my mid-30s that i started  seriously designing my own sweaters and shawls and several more years before i actually wrote knitting patterns to sell. even then, i sold them only on a small scale through local yarn stores at first.

then i started blogging and it all came together; readers encouraged me to sell patterns for my designs online and i tried it. one thing led to another and before long, i was selling enough to make it a full-time endeavor, which lead to lots more designs.

KW: We think it is safe to say the bulk of your designs incorporate lace.  What about knitting lace – and more specifically shawls – appeals to you?

AH: funny thing about that; it’s true that the bulk of what the online community has seen of my work is lace. however, i have a deep background designing sweaters and knitting other types of fabrics as well, but i often forget that the general knitting public has not seen as much of that!

i’ve always enjoyed rather lengthy forays into specific types of knitting, working for 6 months or a year with aran patterns, for instance, then doing color work for a while, then working through various techniques or construction problems; sometimes this work manifested itself in garments and sometimes just a series of swatches. i rotated between different types of knitting and back again as my interest dictated.

i like lace because it is so architecturally interesting; it has rhythm and cadence and the patterns allow deeply-relaxed focus for me. but honestly, that is true of any patterned knitting.

i started a “conversation” around lace on my blog with my first shawl design, and have built on that geometrically over the last three years, incorporating all aspects of what affects the results, from needles, to yarn, to fiber, to the garment itself. i think the curiosity of readers has contributed to keeping this particular investigation going for so long.

shawls are a very special type of garment to knit; they have a romantic, narrative quality which is not reliant on the body that fills them. i enjoy “composing” stitches on the canvas of a shawl. they are also structurally interesting to knit; something is always going on to keep the knitter involved, especially in the shaped ones.

i’m making room again now for sweater knitting, which is a real passion of mine; i’ve missed it way too much and i have many designs that i want to publish. i like creating functional, everyday garments as much as shawls; it pleases me to make items that are useful and will receive hard wear on a constant basis. designing functional items that are visually attractive and interesting to look at is very satisfying.

KW: We’re so happy you enjoyed knitting with Canopy Fingering and Road to China Light.  What about the yarns do you think made them great for knitting shawls?

AH: both of these yarns are extremely pleasant to knit with! i just love a yarn that feels delicious as it runs through my fingers and both of these yarns fit the bill. then there is the fabric; i can’t describe in words how soft and luxurious they are knitted up and how much i appreciated having the chance to work with them. these are important qualities in a yarn that you are using for a big project like a shawl; you’ll want to pick it up and work on it every chance you get when the yarn is this lovely.

structurally too, these yarns are perfect for lace and shawls; the fiber content and relaxed twist contribute to fluid stitches and even fabric that blocks and drapes beautifully. the slightly-iridescent shading of differently-colored fibers used in the yarn, accents and highlights the folds of the fabric as it falls or catches the light.

KW: Let’s talk about your design process. For these two designs, did you have a project in mind and then choose our yarns, or did you first swatch and then design a project specific to each yarn’s properties? Do you find that your methods change depending on the project or do you have one way you always work?

AH: having had the opportunity to touch the yarn in person and take a skein home from TNNA, i knew i wanted to make something soft and luscious with it! at first i thought it would be a small, accessory item. i wasn’t necessarily thinking of a shawl design to begin with. later, i came up with a design that i knew would be enhanced by using these yarns.

i would say i have two muses: stitch patterns and yarn.

sometimes yarn inspires me to look for a pattern and sometimes stitch patterns call to me first and i have to find a yarn to go with them.

KW: If the design came first, what made you chose our yarns for each design?

AH: i began putting stitches together for a wrap design in laceweight yarn and realized that the heavier, slightly fuzzy fibre company yarns were even better suited to i had in mind. i wanted yarn that would enhance the “soft” qualities of the stitch patterns. i love how the fuzz of these yarns fills in the holes of the motifs with just a haze of color. conversely, the softness of these yarns take the edge off what are basically hard-edged geometric motifs of lines and diamonds.

i actually have a birnam wood wrap knit up in a laceweight alpaca/silk yarn as well, but i think the motifs translate MUCH better in the fibre company fingering and sport yarns. i like the scale of the motifs in the heavier yarn; they are bolder and have more impact.

KW: If the yarn came first, in what way did the yarn “inform” the designs?  More specifically, what about the fiber content, gauge, drape, or colors helped you in your design process?

AH: though the yarn did not inspire the design necessarily, i DO think i would always search for motifs that play well with the gauge, fiber, and tactile qualities of this yarn to enhance the things i like about it.

KW: You use a lot of hand-dyed yarns in your designs, but seem to stick to subtly shaded colors, or multis that stick to a cohesive palette.   Is it safe to say you prefer these types of yarns over commercially dyed ones?  If so, what about hand-dyed yarn (and specifically, The Fibre Co yarns!) appeal to you and how do you think they contribute to your designs?

AH: yes, i have to say that i’ve become somewhat addicted to hand-dyed yarns, or at least, those from smaller produces. first and foremost, i find there is a huge difference in the quality of the yarn itself from small producers; it’s brighter, bouncier, softer, and more “alive” than 95% of commercial yarn. the overall quality and performance of the yarn is just better.

most small producers are hand-picking their bases and/or having them milled to their own specifications and the quality control really shows in the behavior of the resulting fabric.

hand-dyed yarns are the work of artists; i love the variations between batches and working with the unique hand of the dyer. every dyer has a style and no two handle the process quite the same way. even dyers whose sensibilities i would say are very similar, end up with vastly-different stock.

and i just LOVE having personal contact with the yarn makers; i can’t say enough how these relationships have influenced my work. those of us that have been working together for a while agree, that we have not only reached new levels of artistic expression through collaboration, but have helped each other build viable businesses as well. it’s very exciting!

KW: For each project, you picked pretty disparate colors from the Fibre Co palette.  Do your color choices reflect a particular “mood” you want to get across in your designs?   More specifically, why did you choose the Cat’s Claw (buttery orangey yellow) and Macaw (deep rich blue) for the Dovecote shawl, and the Grey Pearl (mid tone grey) and Ruby (red-orange) for the Birnum wood stole?

AH: well, color choices are probably an area that i am most likely to go with my “gut”, at least at first, then figure out why later on, hahaha! in the case of the cat’s claw, i just fell in love with it when i saw it hanging in your booth and it stuck with me all through the spring as a great color for a soft triangle shawl. once i had a design composed, i chose a stronger second color (the blue) and for the wrap, another neutral (gray) and a bright color (red) pretty much just by instinct. now that they are all knit up i love every one of them; the strong colors really accentuate the myriad patterns of holes, or negative space, in the work.  and the softer, neutral colors highlight the cushy solid areas.

KW: Is there anything else you would like to add?

AH: thank you again so much for inviting me to work with your yarns; it was a wonderful experience to knit with them and bring them to the attention of my readers. i hope we can work together again in the future!

We really loved working with Anne and hope you enjoy her patterns!