Archive for the ‘WIPs’ Category

Fiddlehead Pullover on The Purl Bee!

Friday, November 20th, 2009

We are very excited to share a Purl Bee exclusive, the Fiddlehead Pullover with you!  Courtney designed this sweet pullover for infants 0-6 or 6-12 months and it was featured last week on the Purl Bee website in conjunction with The Fibre Company being the featured sponsor for the month of November!  (Be sure to click the “Featured Sponsor” link — you can enter to win some amazing free prizes!

The Fiddlehead Pullover uses Canopy Fingering, just 2 or 3 skeins, which was coincidentally our featured yarn spotlight last week– talk about perfect timing!

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The sweater is knit in pieces and seamed together, and both shoulders have a buttoned closure to make it easier to fit it over baby’s head.  Courtney knows from experience how difficult dressing a floppy little bundle o’ baby can be, and promised she would never knit a pullover for babies ever again unless there were buttons on the shoulders.

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It is shown in our favorite color of Canopy Fingering, Fern.  It’s a perfect baby green–not too blue and not too yellow and perfectly gender neutral!

Don’t have a little one to knit for?  Some readers commented on The Purl Bee that they would like to have an adult sized version of the pattern for themselves and we couldn’t agree more.  We thought a blog tutorial and knit-a-long was in order.  So, over the coming weeks we will be knitting the prototype and talking about how to adapt the pattern for your size and specifications.  The tutorial is designed for you to take charge of your knitting, like a choose your own adventure.  At the end of it all, we will format a traditional pattern you will be able to download from Kelbourne Woolens.  Those of you who just can’t wait, and like a little adventure, grab your needles, visit one of our Canopy Worsted stockists, read on and cast on!

Courtney ran some numbers and knit some swatches last night and here’s what she found: if you follow the 0-6 month size and cast on 86 stitches at a gauge of 5 sts per inch using Canopy Worsted the finished bust circumference is 33.6, which is a women’s small (or perfect for the hard-to-knit-for ‘tween’ in your life).  The 6-12 month size, with a cast on of 94, will give you a 37.6″ circumference.  The difference in stitches for the two sizes is 8 stitches so let’s assume that if we keep increasing our cast on by 8 sts or 1.6″ we’ll be good to go.  (Cast on 102 for a 40.8″ bust, 110 for a 44″ bust, 118 for a 47.2″ bust, 126 sts for a 50.4″ bust, etc). Keep adding 8 to the cast on number, divide that by 5 (the number of stitches per inch) and multiply by 2 (once for the front and once for the back) and you’ll have your finished circumference.

Courtney cast on for the 38″ bust and her bust measures 39″.  She wants the sweater to be fitted, and plans on adding some waist shaping to give it a better fit as well.  (She has already imagined wearing the sweater with a nice tailored pair of slacks and little heels at TNNA).  Ultimately, the fit you choose is up to you — you can go for a comfy oversized fit, or a more tailored tighter fit.  A good “average fit” would be about 2″ positive ease, or, if your bust is a 42″ and you cast on 110 for a finished measurement of 44″ you would have a comfortable, well fitting sweater.

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For the adult sweater, work in a k1, p1 rib for about 3″, but the length of the ribbing is up to you in the end.  In a more fitted sweater we think a slightly longer ribbing looks best, and for larger sizes, a longer ribbing is good as well for better proportioning.  For a looser fitted sweater you could get away with ribbing for just a couple of inches.  After you have worked your ribbing for the desired length, you will begin the body panel.   The center panel pattern is a multiple of 7 sts+4, which is NOT the same thing as a multiple of 11.  Why?  Well, this particular panel is 18 sts, which is 7 repeats 2 times (14 sts) plus 4 sts.  There is 4 seed sts on either side of each mock cable.  4 seed, 3 cable, 4 seed, 3 cable, 4 seed.  Here’s a hint, though.  If you are making a larger size you may want to add another mock cable to the body panel.  Now, symmetrically you have to add two, one on either side.  So you could work a center panel of 18 sts as written (which amounts to 3.6″ panel) or you could work 32 sts of the center panel, which is 6.4″ wide.  If we were making a 50″ sweater we would want the wider center panel to balance out the stockinette on either side.  When you start working the center panel — which will be either 18 or 32 sts depending on what you decide is best for you –  you have to center it.  For the first two sizes and an 18 st panel, the numbers are the same as in the original pattern.  For the other  sizes, you will have to subtract the center panel sts–again, 18 OR 32–from your cast on number.  Cast on 126?  Want a wider 32 st center panel?  126-32=94.  Now, divide the answer by 2: 94/2=47.  So you would work k47, [work center panel], k47.  One more time.  Did you cast on 118 sts?  Want to work a narrower 18 st center panel?  118-18=100/2=50.  So, k50, [work center panel], k50.  Great!

So, go cast on!  What are you waiting for?  Stay tuned for waist shaping…

In the beginning…

Tuesday, August 4th, 2009

…there’s always a swatch.  Or, I suppose I ought to say there should always be.  I always swatched…a little bit.  But honestly, after the 5th time ripping and reknitting one starts to see the obvious advantages to taking a few days extra to perfect the swatch.  I have become a painstaking swatcher–a relatively new thing for me but well worth the effort.  Kate has also made me appreciate the washed, tugged on, blocked and steamed swatch to truly know what you’re getting after all your knitting efforts.

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And although at first glance the fabric swatch above looks fairly uniform there is a lot going on.  I swatched the garter stitch on a 2mm to see if my guess about needle size was correct, and I felt it was so I continued onwards.  After 18 rows of garter, to get my desired depth of the sweater’s bottom border, I changed to a size 3mm needle.  I had been wanting to work the Canopy Fingering (shown in River Dolphin) in a very geometric knit/purl pattern to show off the iridescence of the yarn.  I found the perfect stitch pattern while paging through old Bear Brand Cardigan book and set to swatching the design.

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The first repeat of the pattern, just above the garter border, has five rows of stockinette after the garter, and then three rows between the parallelograms.  The second repeat of the pattern has five stockinette rows between the parallelograms.  I bound off.  I blocked.  I thought about it.  I measured.  I realized that the five rows of knit/purl pattern plus three rows of stockinette was just the slightest hair over one inch.  I had been leaning towards that as the better looking of the two options and decided it was destiny.  A designer couldn’t ask for a better way to measure/size a pattern than to have a built-in measuring device.

I began swatch number two.

I kept my same number of garter ridges and still agreed with myself that the 2mm needle was definitely the way to go.  However, the fabric on the 3mm needle wasn’t pleasing me 100%.  Second swatch?  2.75mm.  Perfection.  And, the row measurement went from just a hair over 1″ per one half repeat to exactly 1″ per half repeat.  Kismet.

Now, if I could just remember what I always tell our customers:  The yarns are all handdyed so be sure to alternate skeins as there can be a slight variance even within dyelots (see ripped out cardigan front from the “Artisan Yarn, a note” post below).

So much for feeling smug about all that swatching.

Ysolda visits Kelbourne Woolens!

Thursday, April 30th, 2009

Philadelphia was lucky enough to be one of the stops on Ysolda’s whirlwind United States tour.  Although we experienced a heat wave of insane proportions over the weekend, we were able to show her a pretty great time!

Sunday began with a day at Rosie’s and ended with delicious drinks and tapas at Tria where we brainstormed and schemed new ideas, plans and projects.  We left her to her own devices on Monday to explore the city and then Tuesday did a bit of everything including a trip up to the warehouse (where more scheming may have occurred!).

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The day would not have been complete without cupcakes at Brown Betty!

One of the (many) wonderful things about Ysolda’s stay here was that she had a large amount of smaples with her from her new book, Whimsial Little Knits as well as some of her sweaters.  Kate tried on Coraline, a pattern she has admired and had waiting in the wings since its release, and was immediately hooked.

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It may have been the attached i-cord……

We have been busily knitting knitting knitting for new patterns, TNNA samples and future publications, so Coraline is destined to be a project for Kate when the creativity demands time off or she needs some beautiful stockinette to clear her head. Knit out of Road to China Light in Grey Pearl, it is a joy to knit, and after seeing and wearing the original sample, she is confident it will also be a joy to wear!